Contrast and Predictability of Island-scale El Niño Influences on Hawaii Wave Climate

Abstract

The El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) influences ocean wave activity across the Pacific, but its effects on island shores are modulated by local weather and selective sheltering of multi-modal seas. Utilizing 41 years of high-resolution wave hindcasts, we decipher the season- and locality-dependent connections between ENSO and wave patterns around the Hawaiian Islands. The north and west-facing shores, exposed to energetic northwest swells during boreal winters, experience the most pronounced ENSO-related variability, with increased high-surf activity during El Niño years. While the year-round trade wind waves exhibit moderate correlation with ENSO, the basin-wide climate influence is masked by locally accelerated trade winds in channels and around large headlands. The remarkable global-to-local pathway through the high-resolution hindcast enables development of an ENSO-based semi-empirical wave model to statistically describe and predict severe wave conditions on vulnerable shores with potential application in coastal risk management and hazard mitigation for Pacific Islands and beyond.

Publication
Geophysical Research Letters, 52, 2024GL113127

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